Susan's Super Slippers

 This is a simple pattern for my super slippers. These make up quickly and are terrific for fund raisers, gifts or to indulge your self. They travel well and are good for when you are staying away from home and want some foot cover to duck into the bathroom.  Do take care on polished boards, as they can be quite slippery. I have provided these in three sizes however there is quite a bit of stretch in these and depending on your yarn they will fit a range of foot shapes. Once you have the hang of these you can experiment with buttons and bows, pom poms and embellishments however then they wouldn't be so simple!

Have fun, and do donate as many as you can to charity.

THE PATTERN IS IN BOTH UK/USA TERMS

Susan's Super Slippers

Australian UK Terms are first/ USA term second = tr/dc

 

Materials: 8ply/double knit/worsted weight yarn;   3.75 /4mm/ J6 hook

Sizes (foot length)

• A = 13cm / 5 ½ in (little kids)
• B = 18cm / 7 in  (ladies)
•  C = 22cm/ 8 ½ in (big foot)

Begin at the sole; the heel is at the start of the round

1. Loosely ch 16 / 20 / 24, starting 4^th from hook 1tr/dc next 12 / 16 / 20;  4tr/dc next st,  working on other side of ch, 1tr/dc next 11 / 15 / 19; 2 tr/dc next st, slst join to 3^rd ch of start = 30 / 38 / 46

2. 3ch start, 1tr/dc same st, 2tr/dc next st, 1tr/dc next 11 / 15 / 19st, 2tr/dc next st 4 times, 1tr/dc next 11 / 15 /19, 2tr/dc next st twice, slst join = 38 / 46 / 54

3. 3ch start, 1tr/dc same st, 2tr/dc next st 3 times, 1tr/dc next 11 / 15 / 19st, 2tr/dc next st 8 times, 1tr/dc next 11 / 15 / 19st, 2 tr/dc next st 4 times, slst join = 54 / 62 / 70

4. 3ch start, 1tr/dc each st around, slst join = 54 / 62 /70 (Omit for size A)

Pigeon toed, under toed.....

  

Shaping

5. 3ch start, 1tr/dc next 16 / 20 / 24 st, (miss 1st, 1tr/dc next st) 10 times, 1tr/dc next 17 / 21 / 25 slst join = 44 / 52 / 60

6. 3ch start, 1tr/dc next 16 / 20 / 24st, (miss 1st, 1tr/dc next st) 5 times, 1tr/dc next 17 / 21 / 25 slst join = 39 / 47 /55

7. 3ch start, (1ch miss 1^st 1tr/dc next st) 6 / 8 /10 times; (miss 1 st 1tr/dc next st) 5 / 6 / 7 times (1ch miss 1^st 1tr/dc next st) 8 / 9 / 10 times, 1ch, slst join = 20 / 24 / 28 tr/dc posts

8. 3ch start, (1ch miss 1ch 1tr/dc next tr/dc) 7 / 8 / 9 times 5ch, miss 4 / 6 / 8tr/dc, (1tr/dc next tr/dc, 1ch) 7 / 9 /10 times around, slst join = 16 / 18 / 20 tr/dc posts

9. 3ch start, (1tr/dc into ch sp, 1 back post tr/dc next tr/dc) 7 / 8 / 9 times till you reach the 5ch of row 8, 1dc/sc into 3^rd ch, continue on other side with (1 back post tr/dc next tr/dc, 1tr/dc into ch sp) 8 / 9 / 10 times, 1 bp tr/dc last st then slst join at back to finish off.

use up those annoying bits of faux fur from the scrap basket

Contrast Edge: Join at back of heel in space between tr/dc. Work (1dc/sc, 1tr/dc) miss 1 tr around. Slip st join and weave in ends.

Cant wait to see your finished slippers!  Have fun,

cheers Susan.

(c) crochetroo. copyright please do not sell or copy this pattern .  Links are welcome.

Daisy Chain Beanie - scrapbuster project (free crochet pattern)

I am a great hoarder of scraps, and seem to have a mountain of little bits and pieces of yarn from a multitude of projects. In a feeble attempt to reduce the yarn stock in my cupboards I have come up with a series of scrap buster projects.

This is called the Daisy Chain Beanie which uses up small bits of yarn for the flowers, joins them together and then creates a hat. They look good with a plain black or white background but I have experimented using different colours for the brim and edging.

Now the crochet enthusiasts will go wow, some might think this is destined for what not to crochet!

I personally like the colour and think they are great to donate to charities or to keep any little kids head warm.

So I post the pattern here for all the scrapaholics to enjoy. There are 2 sizes and you will have to experiment with the sizing. I suspect our yarn down here in Australia might be a bit lighter than the worsted stuff in the US.

I do ask that you respect my copyright. It has taken me a while to design this and write the instructions up so please don't copy, paste to the web, redistribute or sell my patterns. I also ask that in the spirit of paying it forward (PIF) if you do use this pattern for yourself, that you also make an extra hat for a charity.

Finished items are not to be sold.

......and it is nice to know who is doing what with my patterns so please leave a comment.

Daisy Chain Beanie

scrapbuster project

(c) crochetroo designs from Australia

This pretty beanie is made from scraps of 8ply, worsted weight yarn with a 4mm, J6 hook. Make each flower in a different colour, or use different colours for the flower centre. Approximate lengths of yarn for each round are given so you can estimate how to use up your scraps. Weave in your ends as you go. I use a steel hook to pull these into the work.

Australian/British instructions are first, American instructions are second in [square brackets]. I suggest you highlight the ones you need to follow.

While I have made a few of these, the pattern hasn't been tested by others. If you find any errors please let me know.

Sizing: this will depend on your tension and yarn the following is a guide only. My flowers measure 8cm/ 3inches across.

Small (Toddler) = 8 flowers, 44cm/17inches circumference, 17cm/6 ½ inches height,
Large (Child - Teen) = 8 flowers, 50cm/19½ inch circumference, 19cm/ 7 ½ inches height

Daisies

1. 4ch slst into a ring, 2ch 9htr [hdc] into ring, slst join = 10 (110 cm or 45 inches of yarn)

2. 1ch (1dc [sc] into next st, 4ch, miss 1) 5times slst join into first st. You should have 5 loops (90cm or 37inches of yarn)

3. Into each of the ch loops work (1dc[sc], 1htr[hdc], 1tr[dc], 2ch, 1tr[dc], 1htr[hdc], 1dc[sc]) slst finish off = 5 petals (250cm or 100inches of yarn)
For the large size replace the 2ch with 3ch for extra stretch.

Joining Daisies:

Make 1 start daisy and then join as you go with round 3. Work three petals, then work half of the fourth (1dc[sc], 1htr[hdc], 1tr[dc], 1ch) then insert hook into ch space of petal on first flower, join with 1ch, (make 1ch extra for the large size) then work the second half of the petal (1tr[dc], 1htr[hdc], 1dc[sc]). Join 2 petals in this way and then complete round three as above.

Flower 3: Join as for flowers 1 and 2 but check that placement matches the picture above. Every second daisy has a loose petal that points up or down.

You will need to join them in a circle when you work the last flower by catching 2 petals to flower 7 and 2 petals to flower 1.

Beanie Crown
Rounds 1 – 6 of the crown are worked with the stitches between the posts. Start each round with 3ch which counts a 1tr[dc], slst join at the end of each round.

1. Join main yarn to the ch space in any spare petal with a slst, 1dc[sc] into same sp, *3ch, 1dc[sc] between this petal and the next petal, 3ch, 1dc[sc] at petal join, 3ch, 1dc[sc] between next 2 petals, 3ch, 1dc[sc] tip of spare petal* repeat in this manner until you get back to the start dc[sc], slst join. You should have 24 of the 3ch loops.

2. 1ch space, *2dc[sc] into ch sp, 2htr[hdc] next ch sp, 2tr[dc] next ch sp, 2tr[dc] next ch sp, 2htr[hdc] next ch sp, 2dc[sc] next ch sp* work from * to * 4 times, slst join in start ch= 48

For the larger size work 1ch between each set of 2st.

3. 3ch start, 1tr[dc] same st, (this should be between 2 groups of 2dc[sc]), (miss 2st, 2tr[dc] in sp) around = 48st or 24 groups
.
4. For larger size only repeat round 3 = 48st

5. Slst to next sp, 3ch, (counts as 1tr[dc]) miss 2st, (2tr[dc] next sp, miss 2st, 1tr[dc] next sp) around, slst join = 36st

6. Slst to next sp, 3ch start, (miss 2st, 1tr[dc] in sp, miss 1, 1tr[dc] in sp) around. Slst join = 24st

7. You will work into the loops of the stitches from round 7 onwards.
3ch start, (2trtog [dctog], 1tr[dc] next st) around = 16st

8. 3ch, (2tr[dc] tog) around (you will finish with 1tr[dc]), slst finish off leaving 6inches/15cm of yarn. Weave loose end through the top of the loops and pull up tight, stitch in ends to secure.

Brim band

1. Working on opposite side of daisies repeat round 1 as for hat crown.

2. Slst to next ch space, *2dc[sc] into ch sp, 1ch, 2htr[hdc] next ch sp, 1ch, 2tr[dc] next ch sp, 1ch, 2tr[dc] next ch sp, 1ch, 2htr[htr] next ch sp, 1ch, 2dc[sc] next ch sp ,1ch* work from * to * 4 times , slst join in start dc.= 48 (this is the same as round 2 for the round but with 1ch worked between the groups of stitches)

3. Small size as for round 3 of crown, then work the edge

3 - 4 Large size repeat round 2 of band with the extra 1ch between the sets of 2. (You can do as many extra rows as you want to add length to your hat.)

Edge

1. 1dc[sc] between first pair of tr[dc], (3ch, miss 2tr[dc], 1dc[sc] in space) around. Slst join.

2. 3dc[sc] into each 3ch sp around, slst join and weave in ends.

This looks good in a contrast colour. For a larger hat you may need to work 2 rounds of round 3.

Daisy Chain Head Band

1. Make a daisy chain as for a hat.

2. Work both sides of daisies as for rounds 1 and 2 of the brim band

3. Work a final round of 1dc[sc] into each st and each ch space on both edges of your head band.

Using this technique you can also make a scarf.

Have fun and please send me pictures of your finished hats so I can show the world!

The Schrap

I cant believe that is it July! It has been a cold winter here and my posts seem to be fewer as the days are shorter. It has been good crochet weather though.

I have made a heap of these little numbers which I am going to call the Schrap. They are a cross between a shawl, and scarf and a wrap.




The good thing about these is that they work up with minimal yarn. I stumbled across this idea when I accidentally ran out of yarn one day. I have a habit of buying 2 balls of pretty yarn when I see it on sale, with no idea what I am going to make out of it. I am sure I am not alone here!

One or 2 balls usually does it, of cause 3 balls will make it a big larger. My mum in law is an elderly lady, and she finds that scarfs, wraps and shawls, while being cosy, are a bit heavy and hard to manage. You also have bits of crochet fabric hanging about to catch on things or trip you up which is a certain risk for older people with walking frames and wheely walkers.

I hadn't thought of this until my mum in law requested more! It is the neck and shoulders that need the warmth and these are easier to fling on than say a cardigan or coat.

The other benefit is that these are easily stuffed into a hand bag, or a wheelie walker bag. I have made myself a few and they are great for sitting in the air con at the movies. Because the fabric is loose I pull one corner through the holes to secure it. This is a green one she requested to go with her green things.



The patterns I use are very simple, and a lot like some shawl patterns about. I keep the stitches very basic as the effect is in the yarn.

Yarn is one of those pretty sparkly yarns or ribbon type yarns with the holes in it. I also use a large hook - 6 - 7mm, so they work up pretty quickly.

They need to be lacy to remain fairly light and stretchy.

Instructions for a Schrap

These instructions are written in Australian/British terminology. If you are used to US terms you need to translate: tr = dc, dc = sc.

4ch slst in a ring


1. 3ch, into ring work 1tr 1ch, (3tr 2ch 3tr) this will become the point, 1ch 2tr turn.

2. 3ch 1tr into top of first st, 1ch 3tr into ch sp, 1ch, (3tr 2ch 3tr) into next sp, 1ch, 3tr next sp, 1ch, 2tr top of last st, turn.

3. 3ch 1tr into top of first st, 1ch, * 3tr into ch sp, 1ch* along side to corner work (3tr 2ch 3tr) 1ch, then repeat * - 8 along side, finish with 2tr in top of last st.


Repeat row 3 but make one extra (3tr 1ch) along each side.

If you want it lacy work (2tr 3ch) in place of the (3tr 1ch)

I usually do about 20 - 24 rows .


For a an even lacier effect, I use less tr/dc. Sorry these are hard to photograph, but hopefully the picture gives you a bit of an idea.



4ch slst in a ring


1. 4ch, into ring work 1tr 1ch, 1tr, 2ch (this will become the point), 1 ch 1tr 1ch 1tr turn.


2. 4ch 1tr into first space, 1ch, 1tr next sp, 1ch, (1tr 1ch, 1tr 2ch 1tr 1ch 1tr ) into next sp, 1ch, 1tr next sp, 1ch, 1 tr next sp, 1ch, 1tr top of last st, turn.

Repeat row 2 but make 1 extra (1tr 1ch) along each side than in the previous row. The trick is to mark your point in each row and to count that the number of tr/dc are the same along each side. It is easy to go wonky in the first few rows.

I have fun experimenting with the different yarns to see what works best.

To finish off I sometimes do one round of 3 or 4ch, 1dc in the spaces, and add tassels if I have any extra yarn left over. The tassels are pieces of yarn cut at 30cm or 12 inches, fold in half and loop through the corners. They add a touch of variety to the wardrobe.

Thanks for looking. Someone said these would be good to donate to aged care facilities as a change from the usual afghan, lapghan. I tend to agree as they are functional and quite pretty.

I was also thinking a little card with the words:

"Here is a schrap to wrap you in love" would be nice.

I hope you have fun creating your Schraps! These instructions haven't been tested so if they need a tidy up, please let me know.

(c) crochetroo 2007 Pattern not to be reproduced or sold. Finished schraps not to be resold. Make as many as you want to donate to friends, rellies or charities.

Bonnet Babies crochet square (free pattern)

1. Koala, 2. Duck, 3. Kangaroo, 4. Penguin, 5. Red Eyed Frog, 6. Year of the Pig Square

Meet the Bonnet Babies. This is number 7 in my rugalugs series.

I designed this one as as quick novelty square to be used in charity blankets and rugs. My intention here that this one would be free on my blog. While the pattern is copyright and you cant sell it, you can make as many things as you can for charity. That is the goal!

Each square uses a minimum of yarn and I imagined they would look quite colourful in a variety of colours. The hardest part is finding a good skin coloured yarn; light apricot often works well, but is hard to find.

There are actually 2 squares - a bonnet baby girl, and a bonnet baby boy. The girl has a frilly bonnet, and the boy a plain bonnet. I like to add a dimensional component to my squares, and the bonnets, bow and nose all pop out. I suggest you mix these with a plain granny. While this square is about 11cm/4inches you can make it larger by adding extra rounds. I am sure they have multiple applications, and with Easter approaching bonnets are in season!

I hope you like it. If you do use it I would love to hear which charities you are supporting, and even see some photos of finished products. It is so easy to download something from the internet, without providing feedback.

As with all my patterns there are both Australian /British and American versions. So make sure you use the correct one or your babies might look a bit odd. Have fun!

Bonnet Baby Square (c) 2007crochetroo
Australian instructions

· 8 ply yarn, worsted weight, or double knit yarn - size 8 (4mm) hook
· Square measures approximately 11cm/ 4inches.
· The Baby is worked in anticlockwise rounds giving a right and wrong side. Some stitches are worked through the front or back loops only so look out for these.

Baby Face

Skin Colour
Round 1: 4ch into 4th ch from hook work 10tr, 4tr popcorn, slst into top of start ch to form a circle =12.

Round 2: 3ch, 1tr same place, (2tr next st) around, slst join finish off, weave in ends= 24

Bonnet colour
Round 3: Join bonnet colour in the first st of round 2. Work front loops only.
Girl: 1dc next 6, (3tr next st, 1dc next st) 5times, 1dc next 6st, bows – (1dc 8ch 1slst into dc) into next st twice, slst join and weave in ends.

Boy: 1dc next 6, 2htr next st, 2tr next 8st, 2htr next st, 1dc next 6st, bows – (1dc 8ch 1slst into dc) into next st twice, slst join and weave in ends.

Background

Round 1: This round is worked in back loops only. Each side consists of a corner, and 4 stitches along the side. Check that your baby is centred.
Fold the bonnet forward, join contrast in back loop behind 3rd dc to the left of the bow. (3ch 1tr 2ch 2tr) into this loop, *1dc next 4st along side of head, miss 1st, work corner (2tr 2ch 2tr) next st, repeat pattern from * finishing with a slst into top of starting ch.

Round 2: From here you will work between the stitches. All corners are 3tr 3ch 3tr.
Slst to 2ch sp, (3ch 2tr 3ch 3tr) start corner into this sp, * (miss 2, 2tr between stitches) 3times make corner of (3tr 3ch 3tr) in ch sp, repeat pattern from * finishing with a slst into top of starting ch.

Round 3: Start with a slst in a corner. Work (1dc 3ch 1dc) in corners; 3ch 1dc in spaces around. Slst finish off round.

Stitch 2 eyes either side of nose. I weave the yarn through the stitches to get a neat finish.
Stitch a rose bud mouth under nose.

Bonnet Baby Square (c) 2007 crochetroo
American instructions

· 8 ply yarn, worsted weight, or double knit yarn - size 8 (4mm) hook
· Square measures approximately 11cm/ 4inches.
· The Baby is worked in anticlockwise rounds giving a right and wrong side. Some stitches are worked through the front or back loops only so look out for these.

Baby Face

Skin Colour
Round 1: 4ch into 4th ch from hook work 10dc, 4dc popcorn, slst into top of start ch to form a circle =12.

Round 2: 3ch, 1dc same place, (2dc next st) around, slst join finish off, weave in ends= 24

Bonnet colour
Round 3: Join bonnet colour in the first st of round 2. Work front loops only.
Girl: 1sc next 6, (3dc next st, 1sc next st) 5times, 1sc next 6st, make bows – (1sc 8ch 1slst into c) into next st twice, slst join and weave in ends.

Boy: 1sc next 6, 2hdc next st, 2dc next 8st, 2hdc next st, 1sc next 6st, make bows – (1sc 8ch 1slst into sc) into next st twice, slst join and weave in ends.

Background

Round 1: This round is worked in back loops only. Each side consists of a corner, and 4 stitches along the side. Check that your baby is centred.
Fold the bonnet forward, join contrast in back loop behind 3rd dc to the left of the bow. (3ch 1dc 2ch 2dc) into this loop, *1sc next 4st along side of head, miss 1st, work corner (2dc 2ch 2dc) next st, repeat pattern from * finishing with a slst into top of starting ch.

Round 2: From here you will work between the stitches. All corners are 3dc 3ch 3dc.
Slst to 2ch sp, (3ch 2dc 3ch 3dc) start corner into this sp, * (miss 2, 2dc between stitches) 3times, make corner (3dc 3ch 3dc) in ch sp, repeat pattern from * finishing with a slst into top of starting ch.

Round 3: Start with a slst in a corner. Work (1sc 3ch 1sc) in corners; 3ch 1sc in spaces around. Slst finish off round.

Stitch 2 eyes either side of nose. I weave the yarn through the stitches to get a neat finish.
Stitch a rose bud mouth under nose.

Thanks for looking, and enjoy your babies.

(c) crochetroo Australia 2007